PLANTING TREES AND SHRUBS

Before You Plant
It is important to select the proper plant for your site.  Take into consideration the amount of space available for the plant, amount of light the plant will receive, type of soil the plant requires, and type of soil at the site.  All these issues should factor into the
plant selection process.

What Plant Form are You Transplanting?
Your tree or shrub will come in one of three forms:  Papier mache pot; balled and burlapped (B&B); or containerized.  If the soil is moist and kept sufficiently watered, planting can be done anytime the soil is not frozen.  If possible, plant your tree or shrub as soon as you get it home.  Otherwise, it may dry out and become injured.  If you can’t plant it immediately, place it in a shady and/or sheltered location.  Keep the soil moist until planted.

The Planting Hole
To plant a tree, dig a hole at least 12” wider than the width of the root ball and 2-3”shallower than root ball depth.  The top of the root ball should be slightly above the surface of the ground.  For shrubs, dig a hole 2 to 3 times as wide as the root ball and the same depth as the root ball.  The top of the root ball should be level with the surface of the ground or slightly raised.

Placing Your Plant in the Hole
Papier Mache Pots: Place the plant (still in the pot) into the hole.  With a sharp knife, slit down the sides vertically in 4 to 5 places.  Backfill the hole, then remove the top edge that is exposed. Pour a transplanting root stimulator over the root ball. This will help the newly planted tree or shrub to grow new roots.

Balled & Burlapped Plants: Place the plant into the hole. Do not remove any rope or string until the tree is at the proper planting height (2 to 3” above surface of soil) and it is positioned in the desired direction. Partially backfill the hole, then remove all twine or nylon strings. Fold down top half of the basket and top half of burlap. Synthetic burlap material must be removed. Do not attempt to remove the burlap from under the plant – this could damage the root ball. Finish filling hole with backfill. Pour a transplanting root stimulator over the root ball. This will help the newly planted tree or shrub to grow new roots.
Container Plants: Ease the pot off without disturbing the root ball. Cut any circling roots and place the root ball in the hole. If the roots are extremely compacted, you may need to make a few shallow cuts through the roots on the sides and bottom of the root ball. Pour a transplanting root stimulator over the root ball. This will help the newly planted tree or shrub to grow new roots.

Enriching Your Soil & Backfilling
Most soils in the urban landscape are silt to clay base and will benefit with organic amendments.  Add Dutch Garden Center compost to your soil. For trees, mix 65% existing soil and 35% organic matter. For shrubs, mix 50% existing soil and 50% organic matter.

Mix in an organic fertilizer with amended soil and backfill your planting hole. When the hole is about half refilled, straighten and level the plant and tamp the soil down carefully. Water, and then fill the rest of the hole with the amended soil. Use excess soil to build a ring 6 to 10” from the outside of the hole. Water will have the ability to collect in this saucer and move slowly down in the root zone of the plant as well as minimize runoff.

Watering
Water your newly planted tree or shrub by using a slow, deep-watering method. Balled and burlapped and container plant’s roots dry out faster than the soil around them, so it is important to monitor their soil moisture. Water slowly to attain deep-water penetration, which encourages widespread root development. Plants should receive about 1” of water per week during the growing season. You should monitor a plant’s water needs for the first two growing seasons.

Staking
Staking a tree should only be done when necessary, such as when roots are not solid in the planting hole or where the tree could be dislodged by high winds. In most instances, the weight of the root ball is normally sufficient to hold the tree in place. Trees with trunks up to 2” in diameter can be supported with a single 2”x2”x8’ stake driven firmly into the ground at a 45° angle close to the trunk and attached to the tree with plastic ties designed for this purpose or with twine. Wrap the trunk of the tree to protect it from rubbing against the stake. Trees with trunks larger than 2” in diameter may require 2 or 3 stakes or guy wires anchored into the soil. Remove stakes and wires after one growing season.

Mulching
Add a 2-3” layer of shredded mulch or bark chips around the plant. This will prevent water loss and keep mowers and trimmers from getting too close to the plant. Avoid overly deep mulch up against the trunk or stems of the plant as this can promote disease or pest injury.

PLANTING PERENNIAL & ANNUAL PLANTS

Most perennials and annuals like a well-drained soil rich with organic matter. Soil for most perennials and annuals should be amended with 3-4” of compost or organic soil builder, blended to a depth of 8-12”. Once the soil has been prepared, place your plants around the planting area while still in their pots. Make sure you have taken into consideration the mature height of the plant as well as sun or shade requirements. Determine an approximate location for the planting then dig a hole in the amended soil wide enough and deep enough to accommodate the plant. Water the plants thoroughly, and then remove them from their posts by inverting them and supporting the root ball.

If the roots have grown out or compacted against the pot or container, ‘feather’ the roots out by using your fingers to gently pull the surface roots away from the root ball. This will encourage new roots to grow away from the root ball and out into the new soil. If the roots are extremely compacted, you may need to make a few shallow cuts through the roots on the sides and bottom of the root ball.

Place your plant into the hole, then backfill to ground level. Water the plant thoroughly to ensure the soil fills in completely around the roots, eliminating large air pockets. Pour a root stimulator over the root ball. This will help the newly planted annual or perennial to grow new roots.

Monitor your annuals and perennials daily, watering as needed. Water slowly to attain deep-water penetration, which encourages widespread root development. Feed annuals weekly or bi-weekly with the appropriate fertilizer. Feed perennials bi-weekly with a water soluble or time-released fertilizer.

Add a 2-3” layer of mulch around the plant to help retain soil moisture. Avoid overly deep mulch up against the trunk or stems of the plant as this can promote disease or pest injury.